A renewed look at the RM017: Richard Mille’s Ultra-Thin Tourbillon.

Mar 30, 2014,03:09 AM
 


[The more recent RM017 with renewed design, aesthetics, and three-dimensional form to the movement. Note the use of different finishing, beveling, and bridgework that illuminates’ the three-dimensional aspect to the movement and gives it depth. A triumph of Richard’s extreme technique approach to watchmaking.]


[Originally released at SIHH 2010, I took these pictures at the time, and it appeared as if the RM017 had taken the ‘flat’ part of the design a little too seriously. It appeared almost too ‘flat’ in both form and design]

Declared by none other than ‘dandy historian’ Vanity Fair’s Nick Foulkes as his favourite Richard Mille watch, the RM017 was released in 2010 but has remained relinquishing in the bottom draw of most Richard Mille dealers and boutiques. Nick Foulkes admiration aside, I have to confess to being on the more negative side of the watch when it first appeared and did not miss it sitting in that bottom draw. After all, for a watch brand that prides itself on three-dimensionality in a watch movement, the RM017 seemed to be missing the point. Flattening out the movement to fit the thin case did seem to be missing out on the best part of the Richard Mille movement: that ability to let the eye wander and capture the elements of the movement that could be found. Coupled with the font and layout of the dial, the actual movement itself was hidden from view. Hence, the RM017 has been slow: both in terms of production and sales.



The RM017 has been something of a problem child since it was launched. Initially, it was simply to be the tourbillon version of the RM016. While any tourbillon is always a joy to behold, the design of the numerals and the movement itself left a great deal to be desired. Gone was the three dimensional appearance of the Richard Mille tourbillon, and in its place was a flat and rather two-dimensional watch. A great shame as the Richard Mille tourbillon watch was always intended to be an interactive experience. The same fast winding barrel provides the tactile winding experience as the other tourbillons, but gone was the possibility of viewing the movement. Richard always wanted the collector to be able to take a lupe and admire the movement; to inspect it and find that in each and every detail, the very best finishing and the most innovative work.



I asked Richard what had been behind the thinking of the RM017. Surprisingly, Richard confessed that he was initially going to launch a rectangular watch, rather than the tonneau shape that all collectors have come to know and love: “The first RM I designed was in fact rectangular, then, at Renaud et Papi’s request, I had to enlarge the center, as I wanted too many functions, then it became a tonneau!” Since the original RM001/002 series it took time to ‘flatten out’ the functions into an ultra-thin tourbillon.



Hence in some respects, the RM017 when it first appeared should have been at least an equal to the tonneau shaped RM watches (the RM002 and the RM021). The case is arguably a more elegant form, slightly less sporty in appearance. It can easily be worn with both formal and more informal attire, and the thinness of the movement would allow the watch to fit comfortably under a cuffed shirtsleeve. However, it seemed that the elegance that was wrought by the slim watch, would also see the interest in the movement removed. For Richard, the watch should be the very essence of life-style: what you wear, what you do, the car you drive, and the innate sense of style, and Richard’s extreme technique to watchmaking: “For me, this model is the perfect example of a symbiosis between extreme technique and a life style philosophy. One of the main characteristics of this watch is due to the fact that it is an extra flat tourbillon model, whose finish is really impressive. I always loved to develop very different aspects, even though the common denominator is always extreme technique, and the fact of developing this lifestyle model was challenging, as I wanted to have a very ergonomic piece, confortable on the wrist, still with a three dimensions movement, particularly sophisticated with angles polished.”



I know that initially, after the first release in 2010, Richard had quietly removed the watch to re-develop the movement and general aesthetics of the watch. I had not seen the re-developed RM017 until a recent visit to Les Breuleux and the Richard Mille manufacture there. On the workbench, just finished both in terms of the watch and the timing of the movement, was a new RM017 with the Richard Mille arabic number dial. It is interesting to note that the arabic numbers were one of the first things that Richard settled on when designing his own watches: a no nonsense font for the numbers, instantly legible, and recognizable as RM. The bridges and plates have all been redesigned both front and back: with a renewed depth to the beveling on the bridges themselves, a new depth has appeared to the movement. Gone is the ‘flat’ appearance, and in its place is the three-dimensionality that captured the hearts of Richard Mille collectors.



The new three-dimensional look has more to do with the redesign on the bridges and the plates than just the return of the traditional font. The bridges have a two-tiered structure, one with a ‘blasted’ finished and the other with a polished or brushed edge. The different use of finished surfaces adds dimension. The polishing and finishing on the gears is of the highest order. Against the darkened surfaces on the plates, the slight layer of the gear train is noticeable and adds depth once again. The five-pronged screwheads’ are all black polished and catch the eye as they gleam. Richard’s first tourbillon watches: the RM001 and RM002 used differences in finish to both emphasize depth to the movement, as well as provide dimensionality to the new designs. For example, the design for the backplate for the RM001 was based on the same plate designs for car engines, but the use of techniques with the watch was nothing but traditional; just used in a different way. The RM017 sees a welcome return to form in that regard: the same aesthetic, traditional techniques.



With a return to basics: the numerals, the three-dimensional aesthetics, and the finishing to enhance the depth of the movement, the RM017 has become an elegant watch that would grace the wrist of any watch collector, or Richard Mille enthusiast for that matter. It is now the watch that Richard had always intended. That combination of lifestyle and extreme watchmaking technique; the RM017 is now a stunning ‘everyday’ (as far as a Richard Mille tourbillon can be considered ‘everyday’!) watch to have on the wrist. I have to say, that the RM017 will now have its “day in the sun”! It is now a watch that I would love to own: elegant, a movement that is from the top draw of Richard Mille’s aesthetics department, and the same easily legible numerals that distinguish the Richard Mille watch. It is a stunning watch and while not containing the marquee pyrotechnics of new materials and sports ambassador endorsement of the tonneau shaped tourbillons, I think that this RM017 is a definitive Richard Mille. To my mind, it now completes what it set out to be: an elegant, thin (as far as you can with three-dimensional movements), and discreet. Simply a watch that would sit on the wrist comfortably in any situation: from the very best cuffs of Savile Row shirts and suits to the beach wear at St.Tropez or après-ski at Courcheval. As a fan of rectangular watches myself, and while I am not seen at the places mentioned in the previous sentence, I do love the latest version of the RM017 watch. It has become something that I hoped it would be. Of course, now that Richard has the aesthetics and technique developed, it is perhaps time to the Richard Mille rectangular watch range. As Richard succinctly summed up: “As far as the RM017 is concerned, I agree with you that this model has been totally underestimated, although it is a real marvel. In fact, I always loved rectangular models. The paradox of this piece is linked to the fact it has taken a long time, like the RM 016, to take off, as the tonneau shape is much more popular. Now, sales are getting better and better, and no doubt that another rectangular model will come in the future.”

Andrew H This message has been edited by 219 on 2014-03-30 03:09:42 This message has been edited by 219 on 2014-03-30 03:10:15 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2014-04-24 12:17:30


More posts: RM001RM002RM016RM017RM021

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Excellent Review Essay

 
 By: colton_d : March 30th, 2014-15:27
I very much enjoyed this piece, and I thank you for sharing. I agree with your original sentiments towards the old-model 17 Andrew; and am very pleased to see how RM has been able to create such depth in a thin movement! Happy to see it in such a good lig... 

Thanks Colton. Appreciate the kind words. The current version

 
 By: 219 : March 31st, 2014-05:12
of the RM017 is a 'looker' in every sense of the word. My compliments to Richard for sticking to the task. Andrew H

thank you

 
 By: mjnoumoff : April 3rd, 2014-11:32
very interesting essay and great pictures. thank you for sharing.