Richard Mille

Mark in Paris
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My Richard Mille RM035 review

Hi everyone,

I finally found the time to present a little report about the RM035, so here it is.

To start with, let me say that Richard Mille truly takes for me a special place in the watch industry today. When one decides to discover its products and goes to have a look at them, it deserves admiration even if, in the mean time, it may raise some skepticism about its marketing (RM marker I really don't understand and subscribe to) or pricing policy. I wish we would not talk here about whether it is too expensive or not, whether we like its marketing approach or not.

I usually just wish to exclude it from the argument as it has nothing to do with what the watch is or is not. You can admire a beautiful Ferrari and enjoy all its strengths without stopping to the price/quality ratio. Curiosity should not be constrained by this element as it may lead to miss a lot of beauties.

To be clear, as far as I'm concerned, the panel of customers doesn't make the watch I wear and I always try to isolate a watch from its environment when I study it.

Furthermore, I can't but say to myself that its founder has adopted a unique approach of this world and that it brings a lot, whether in technical or aesthetic fields.

On another level, this watch has been the subject of many articles here and there. First because of its original materials, technical guidance and of the unusual special place it holds in the watch industry, but also because of a few incidents related to the case's development.

As I said at the beginning, the brand often arouses admiration and interest, and sometimes criticism, but there are almost as many reasons to prefer a specific brand, a complication, or a particular material or style as there are watch lovers.

This subjectivity may sometime create a gap between watch fans who do not always understand what might happen next door. Most of them, however, remain open-minded and understand that if they like the watch X as much they love their favorite, then everything is fine when someone can purchase and enjoy its own one.

Everyone has its own criteria's checklist that might bring that thrill. They are just different from one person to another.

For me, like many, I'm attracted by the general quality of finishing, the technical mastery and the originality that can be brought to completion. I also like what is behind a brand or a specific timepiece: a creator's philosophy (sometimes more of a "delirium"), the recall of history or of a particular event, or even the desire to express a scream, an idea, which the author has not seen in this area yet.

For my part, Richard Mille is a brand that can draw a cross in each of these criteria.

To this, I would add the one I have not mentioned because subjective: the aesthetic orientation. For me, this is another important criterion that leaded me toward this watch.

The review

Back to this watch, I will not talk too much about the technical description as it has been the subject of many threads already, sometimes very sharp, throughout its chaotic development. If needed, you'll find Andrew's (219) and Vinontre's threads on Pp. Thanks to all these participants whose articles helped me when thinking about it.

But however, here are a few reminders:

It's a 90% Mg + 8.9% Aluminum alloy body (high density, lightweight, strong) covered with a ceramic coating resulting from an electro-plasma oxidation process.

Dimensions: 48mm x 39.7mm x 12.25mm (approximately the ones of the RM10, something that was my goal).

The 3D impression really amazes me

I love the case's "tonneau" shape, typical from the brand. Thus there was no question of another form (i.e. no RM033 in spite of the fact I like it a lot, especially the trimming work of the case+bezel+lugs or the movement). Nevertheless, I wanted it to remain size-contained and not disproportionate to my wrist's size. I think RM bigger case boxes (RM030, 011, 055) may very well find a place on a wrist that is not that of a lumberjack. The modern style of this watch allows it. But a more classical and discrete wear is what suits me more (I was looking at the RM030 too, for many reasons but finally chose this RM035).

The weight is 50 grams with its Polyurethane bracelet (sort of allergenic rubber also used in medicine) and the titanium folding clasp.

True to its reputation, the wearing feeling is awesome. Especially when the wearer doesn't have a fleshy wrist as we don't have to over tighten the strap to keep it in place. The case-back's shape is helping the watch to be perfectly positioned on the wrist. I'm not a "I need to feel a heavy watch" person. First because my wrist is thin and also because it moves too much, but furthermore I wouldn't consider catching a gold RM as it is much heavier and it doesn't match with the brand philosophy.

As you've noticed, the bezel's shape (upper top of the watch) is also curved, as is the sapphire crystal (with antiglare on both sides). It's a specific aesthetic characteristic that I appreciate most as it looks perfectly integrated while on the wrist (despite the perpendicular side's construction).

As you can see, the shirt/sweater perfectly follows the curvature of the watch, in coordination with the whole wrist. This is something that really matters through time. This "bio" shape makes this watch easier to wear than a classic 41mm case watch (on my wrist of course). I really liked my 40mm 1815 but one thing was always disturbing my vision: it was 1 or 2mm too wide.

Many have regretted the lack of a transparent case back. Personally, I find this choice consistent due to its sporting use destination and, aesthetically speaking, apart from the fact that I do not like to see my sweaty skin or hair stuck to the sapphire case back, it highlights the depth of the open-worked movement. Having seen the Bubba Watson, I personally feel a significant difference.

However, one thing is to regret. The case "remembers" marks quite easily after small shocks. It doesn't "take off" matter but strong contacts with another hard material leave a grey trace that resembles that of a pencil's graphite. Let's say that we see that the watch lives, that it is used without a second thought and that they are its war scars. More personally, I would have preferred to keep it as origin rather than "tattooed". And I do not know how it's to have the coating restored, without having to buy a new one...

But some may say: one should know what he wants! ... and the guy next to him may answer: "Carbon dude..."

An amusing detail though. When living some water on the surface of the box there is a trace that notes a difference between the part that is wet and the rest. This trace seems impossible to remove, the solution being preferably to wet the entire surface. However, with time, the trace disappears! I guess the coating characteristic must be for something here (plasma-treatment or spinel-stuff, whatever Doc Emmett Brown says...). It is for sure uniqueness in this world, with respect to the response of materials.

The movement is Vaucher based (28.800 o/h, Elinvar spiral, Glucydur balance) but it was abundantly adapted to this sporty watch needs. Many improvements have been adapted to improve impact resistance compared to a more traditional watch.

Among them: no more rotor, fewer parts, solid case back and use of lightweight and resistant materials (titanium, AluMag), main plate fixed with silent blocks to a carbon fiber chassis and to the case etc...

Furthermore, the skeletonisation work of plate and bridges leads to a stunning 4.3 grs movement.

A word concerning the plate and bridges which are one of the most notable features of this model: They are in grade 5 titanium and skeletonization is very finely done. I could not discern any defect in the trimming or sanding surfaces. It's simple, technical and light looking. This lightness is completely adequate with this watch.

Concerning the winding system (55h power reserve), not much to say except the fact that manual winding is equipped with a sliding flange (Hallelujah! I personally hate to bump into the end stop) and the sound of each "tick" when winding is very metallic and crystalline, reasoning much more than a normal watch, like a thin metal rod that is rigid reasoning.

The springs are encased in 2 barrels mounted in series (note the ventilation of the cylinder box imitating disc brakes=> RM's interpretation of a power reserve :p), which improves the working regularity (Chronofiable certified watch, cf. details at the end of this thread). This is a different choice from the DB25 where the two barrels are placed on the same axis, one above the other. I do not know which display is best. I guess DB's choice was also to increase the power reserve (which is much more difficult with 2 big barrels side by side oc).

About the hands, I might have preferred the prototype plain versions but I must admit they were less readable.

The flange is made of carbon fibers.

The crown (DLC treated titanium and Alcryn collar) is very easy to control as you can imagine.

The case and movement's finishing is simply excellent. I have not seen any flaws.

Besides, the watch is sold, not in a box, but in a winder for automatic watches (thus not this one ... haha) with a nice window opening move design.

Finally, a lot of things in this watch are unique and this timepiece is up to what I expect from watch manufacturing.

My choices are not based on common criteria among my watches but in diversity. I wear my watches by periods and it is a renewed pleasure to meet one or another again on my wrist after a period of absence. Finally, this is one of the things I asked the most: do not get tired and find pleasure continuously.

Thanks for reading this and don't hesitate to give your opinion on the watch or anything I mentioned

Best regards,

Mark

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Chronofiable test :

The Chronofiable® test, developed at the beginning of the 80’s by the CCF SA (centre de contrôle de la fiabilité de l’horlogerie Suisse, taken over in 1985 by the Laboratoire Dubois SA), was devised to expose timepieces to an accelerated aging test simulating over 21 days, the equivalent of 6 months effective wear. This is achieved by the execution of a long series of tests such as the initial monitoring of the movement functions, an additional rate, the amplitude test taken at two temperature levels (0°C and 50°C), the monitoring of the power reserve and the winding velocity. Included in this artificial ageing cycle test are extensive linear and angular accelerations as well as some 20,000 shocks ranging from 250 to 5500 m/s2 (9.81 m/s2=1g).

The last step is a final monitoring phase applying the same elements than during the initial monitoring. Conditions like these attest unequivocally to the ability of the movement to withstand an array of extreme conditions without experiencing any effects on its performance.

Chronofiable® is a registered trademark belonging to the Laboratoire Dubois SA.

The wristshots

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