Mark in Paris
[Purist]
10488
Rock around the Richard Mille RM035
Hi everyone,
I finally found the time to present a little report about the RM035, so here it is.
To start with, let me say that Richard Mille truly takes for me a special place in the watch industry today. When one decides to discover its products and goes to have a look at them, it deserves admiration even if, in the mean time, it may raise some skepticism about its marketing (RM marker I really don't understand and subscribe to) or pricing policy. I wish we would not talk here about whether it is too expensive or not, whether we like its marketing approach or not.
I usually just wish to exclude it from the argument as it has nothing to do with what the watch is or is not. You can admire a beautiful Ferrari and enjoy all its strengths without stopping to the price/quality ratio. Curiosity should not be constrained by this element as it may lead to miss a lot of beauties.
To be clear, as far as I'm concerned, the panel of customers doesn't make the watch I wear and I always try to isolate a watch from its environment when I study it.
Furthermore, I can't but say to myself that its founder has adopted a unique approach of this world and that it brings a lot, whether in technical or aesthetic fields.
On another level, this watch has been the subject of many articles here and there. First because of its original materials, technical guidance and of the unusual special place it holds in the watch industry, but also because of a few incidents related to the case's development.
As I said at the beginning, the brand often arouses admiration and interest, and sometimes criticism, but there are almost as many reasons to prefer a specific brand, a complication, or a particular material or style as there are watch lovers.
This subjectivity may sometime create a gap between watch fans who do not always understand what might happen next door. Most of them, however, remain open-minded and understand that if they like the watch X as much they love their favorite, then everything is fine when someone can purchase and enjoy its own one.
Everyone has its own criteria's checklist that might bring that thrill. They are just different from one person to another.
For me, like many, I'm attracted by the general quality of finishing, the technical mastery and the originality that can be brought to completion. I also like what is behind a brand or a specific timepiece: a creator's philosophy (sometimes more of a "delirium"), the recall of history or of a particular event, or even the desire to express a scream, an idea, which the author has not seen in this area yet.
For my part, Richard Mille is a brand that can draw a cross in each of these criteria.
To this, I would add the one I have not mentioned because subjective: the aesthetic orientation. For me, this is another important criterion that leaded me toward this watch.
The review
Back to this watch, I will not talk too much about the technical description as it has been the subject of many threads already, sometimes very sharp, throughout its chaotic development. If needed, you'll find Andrew's (219) and Vinontre's threads on Pp. Thanks to all these participants whose articles helped me when thinking about it.
But however, here are a few reminders:
It's a 90% Mg + 8.9% Aluminum alloy body (high density, lightweight, strong) covered with a ceramic coating resulting from an electro-plasma oxidation process.
Dimensions: 48mm x 39.7mm x 12.25mm (approximately the ones of the RM10, something that was my goal).
The 3D impression really amazes me
I love the case's "tonneau" shape, typical from the brand. Thus there was no question of another form (i.e. no RM033 in spite of the fact I like it a lot, especially the trimming work of the case+bezel+lugs or the movement). Nevertheless, I wanted it to remain size-contained and not disproportionate to my wrist's size. I think RM bigger case boxes (RM030, 011, 055) may very well find a place on a wrist that is not that of a lumberjack. The modern style of this watch allows it. But a more classical and discrete wear is what suits me more (I was looking at the RM030 too, for many reasons but finally chose this RM035).
The weight is 50 grams with its Polyurethane bracelet (sort of allergenic rubber also used in medicine) and the titanium folding clasp.
True to its reputation, the wearing feeling is awesome. Especially when the wearer doesn't have a fleshy wrist as we don't have to over tighten the strap to keep it in place. The case-back's shape is helping the watch to be perfectly positioned on the wrist. I'm not a "I need to feel a heavy watch" person. First because my wrist is thin and also because it moves too much, but furthermore I wouldn't consider catching a gold RM as it is much heavier and it doesn't match with the brand philosophy.
As you've noticed, the bezel's shape (upper top of the watch) is also curved, as is the sapphire crystal (with antiglare on both sides). It's a specific aesthetic characteristic that I appreciate most as it looks perfectly integrated while on the wrist (despite the perpendicular side's construction).
As you can see, the shirt/sweater perfectly follows the curvature of the watch, in coordination with the whole wrist. This is something that really matters through time. This "bio" shape makes this watch easier to wear than a classic 41mm case watch (on my wrist of course). I really liked my 40mm 1815 but one thing was always disturbing my vision: it was 1 or 2mm too wide.
Many have regretted the lack of a transparent case back. Personally, I find this choice consistent due to its sporting use destination and, aesthetically speaking, apart from the fact that I do not like to see my sweaty skin or hair stuck to the sapphire case back, it highlights the depth of the open-worked movement. Having seen the Bubba Watson, I personally feel a significant difference.
However, one thing is to regret. The case "remembers" marks quite easily after small shocks. It doesn't "take off" matter but strong contacts with another hard material leave a grey trace that resembles that of a pencil's graphite. Let's say that we see that the watch lives, that it is used without a second thought and that they are its war scars. More personally, I would have preferred to keep it as origin rather than "tattooed". And I do not know how it's to have the coating restored, without having to buy a new one...
But some may say: one should know what he wants! ... and the guy next to him may answer: "Carbon dude..."
An amusing detail though. When living some water on the surface of the box there is a trace that notes a difference between the part that is wet and the rest. This trace seems impossible to remove, the solution being preferably to wet the entire surface. However, with time, the trace disappears! I guess the coating characteristic must be for something here (plasma-treatment or spinel-stuff, whatever Doc Emmett Brown says...). It is for sure uniqueness in this world, with respect to the response of materials.
The movement is Vaucher based (28.800 o/h, Elinvar spiral, Glucydur balance) but it was abundantly adapted to this sporty watch needs. Many improvements have been adapted to improve impact resistance compared to a more traditional watch.
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For the rest of Boréale's review in Richard Mille forum: richardmille.watchprosite.com
Rock around the Richard Mille RM035
